The Hiking Boots Glossary
Adventure may be out there. But without that perfect pair of hiking boots, you'll have a hard time finding it. To get you on your way faster, we've curated an all-inclusive list of everything you've ever wanted to know about hiking boots and trail shoes. We pride ourselves on our stellar customer service and fitting you in the best shoes for you needs. This glossary takes the guesswork out of finding your "sole" mate so you can get on your grand adventure today.
3M Thinsulate Insulation:
Insulation that uses microfibers and fine fibers to trap air molecules in the boot. This provides a toastier environment for your feet.
A
approach shoes:
A cross between hiking boots and rock climbing shoes that results in a light and comfortable outdoor shoe.
B
backpacking boots:
Made for heavier packs on hikes that are more than a simple day hike. Their midsoles are stiffer than those in light hiking boots, and their lugs will be deeper. Cushioning and stability also increase compared to light hiking boots.
backstay:
A reinforcement that gives the back of the boot structure, covers the Achilles tendon and helps stop any seam wear or breakdown.
blisters:
A fluid-filled bump that is caused by irritation. The friction between your skin and the inside of your boot provides the perfect breeding ground for blisters to form. Add to this any sweat or excess moisture lingering in the boot, and you have the recipe for one painful trek. If you can identify hot spots, or areas of your feet where blisters are more likely to form, try covering the area in petroleum jelly or another form of blister protection before heading out to help prevent irritation.
breathable:
Refers to how easy water and moisture can exit the boot.
C
Cordura:
A type of fabric used in some outdoor footwear. It is highly abrasion-resistant and does not tear or scuff easily.
crampon:
Metal spikes that are strapped to a boot so a hiker can navigate glacier conditions easier.
cross hikers:
Boots that are meant to be used for light off-trail terrains, though their increased support also make them a good choice for longer, perhaps multi-day hikes.
E
EVA (ethylene-vinyl acetate):
A material used in a boot's midsole. It is lightweight and cushions well but tends to compress quickly.
F
footbed:
What the foot rests directly upon. Its thickness will vary to accommodate narrow, medium and wide foot types.
from the skin out (FSO) weight:
The combined weight of everything that will be on your person, such as your backpack and boots. You want your FSO weight to be as light as possible.
full-grain leather upper:
An upper made out of leather that is taken from the top of the hide. It offers tremendous durability and water resistance.
G
GORE-TEX:
A waterproof material frequently used in a boot's upper.
gusseted tongue:
A tongue that is sewn to the boot's upper behind the laces so that it is attached to both sides of the boot. It prevents water and debris from getting into the boot.
H
heel brake:
A raised heel zone that helps making traveling downhill easier.
heel collar:
The part of the boot that cups the Achilles tendon. It also helps ensure dirt and rocks don't escape down into the footbed.
heel cup or heel counter:
Holds and supports the heel. It lends ankle support and prevents the heel from lifting when you walk.
high-cut boots:
Give the most ankle support so they are best for more technical trails. They are a great choice for heavy packs but do require some break-in time.
hiking socks:
Use specific fabrics and construction to provide extra protection. Good hiking socks will reduce the friction between your foot and your boot, so blisters won't be as common. Additionally, they should provide extra cushion so feet are not as susceptible to bumps and scrapes.
I
IceTrek compound:
A rubber compound from Vibram that gives superior traction on all surfaces, especially in frosty climates.
insole:
The insert that your foot rests on directly. Inserting your own insoles can also improve a boot's comfort level.
insulated lining:
Insulation in the upper that has fibers to capture body heat and reflect it back in the shoe.
K
Kevlar:
A strong, flexible fiber that is used in outdoor gear such as walking boots and rucksacks.
L
laces:
Flat laces are a good choice because they stay secure quite well. Likewise, sausage laces—or laces with bulges in them like a sausage link—will give you minimal trouble. Fat, round laces are the least trustworthy and will come untied easily. Laces are one of the easiest things to upgrade in a boot. If you don't like the laces a boot comes with, simply substitute your own.
lateral rigidity:
A boot's ability to keep your foot and heel in place so you don't twist on uneven surfaces. Higher cut boots usually provide more lateral rigidity.
longitudinal rigidity:
How stiff your boots are vertically. Your foot should not excessively bend when you place pressure on the toe or the heel side.
leather uppers:
Are highly durable and resistant to abrasions.
light hiking boots:
Best for day hikes with lighter packs. They are more flexible than backpacking boots but offer less support.
lining:
A good lining will wick moisture away from the foot so friction is reduced and blisters do not develop.
low-cut boots:
Little ankle support but work well on nontechnical trails.
lugs:
Found on the outsole, these bumps jut out of the boot to improve traction. If a lug is deep, that means it will yield more traction. The lug pattern of a boot is also important. Although space between the lugs is necessary so that mud can travel through, too much space hinders the traction of the boot. Additionally, multi-directional lugs give an improved grip.
Lyrca:
A fabric used in outerwear that wicks away moisture.
M
mesh upper:
Acts as a vent that enhances a boot's breathability. Because it lets water flow in and out of the footbed, a mesh upper is a great choice for any hike that might include crossing water—they dry out quickly.
mid-cut boots:
Wrap around the ankle to help protect any debris from getting trapped in the footbed. Mid-cut boots are perfect for multiday hikes when carrying moderate packs.
midsole:
The layer of the boot between the outsole and the upper. It stabilizes the boot and gives the foot support through plastic or steel shanks.
mountaineering boots:
These are best for the most extreme hikes (think scaling Mt. Everest extreme). Their midsoles are as stiff as they come to support heavy loads and to help you manage the most glacial conditions. They are supportive and durable, the perfect companion when you're in it for the long haul.
N
nubuck leather upper:
Full-grain leather that has been buffed to minimize any blemishes the hide might have. Boots with nubuck leather uppers are usually less expensive than those with full-grain leather uppers.
O
Ortholite insole:
A lightweight insole that has long-term cushioning properties and a moisture management system to keep feet as dry as possible. Additionally, anti-microbial agents fight odor, fungus and bacteria.
outsole:
The outsole has direct ground contact. Softer soles will be more grippy but wear down faster than denser soles.
P
pronation:
The natural tendency for the ankle to roll inward when the foot lands on the ground.
polyurethane (PU):
A midsole material that helps counter overpronation. It is longer lasting than EVA and much more supportive. It is more commonly found in backpacking and mountaineering boots. Polyurethane midsoles are usually heavier, less soft and more expensive than EVA midsoles.
Q
Quicklaces:
Laces that aren't tied but rather pulled or cinched. Convenience is their biggest draw.
R
reverse full-grain leather upper:
Full-grain leather that is pulled inside out. It is strong and durable because of its inherent thickness. Additionally, its rough exterior means it can handle abrasions well.
rock plates:
An insert between the midsole and outsole below the shank. It protects the feet from rocks and roots.
S
scree collar:
Padding around the Achilles tendon to prevent chafing and irritation.
shank:
An insert between a midsole and outsole that stiffens the boot. A stiff boot gives a hiker more stability.
split-grain leather:
Leather that comes from the fibrous part of the hide after the full grain part of of the leather has been removed. It is very durable and can withstand abrasions well. It is affordable and can be treated with oil, wax or a buffer to improve its appearance.
supination:
The tendency for the ankle to roll outward upon footstrike.
synthetic upper:
An upper made of man-made materials, such as nylon or polyester. A synthetic upper can have mesh that helps the boot be more breathable in warm climates. They are also good for crossing streams because they let water out, and they dry quickly. Waterproof synthetic leather is another option for a synthetic upper. It is vegan, water resistant and durable.
T
toe box:
The front section of the boot where the toes lie.
toe rand:
A rubber cap at the front of the boot that protects the boot and your feet.
tongue:
Tongues in hiking boots usually sport extra padding to increase a boot's comfort.
top-grain leather:
Similar to full-grain leather. However, this leather has had its top few millimeters sanded down and buffed to minimize any imperfections. It isn't as durable as full-grain leather and will break down faster.
trail shoes:
Also referred to as trail runners. These are the beefed-up cousin of traditional running shoes. Their tread patterns are more technical than road running shoes. This way, you have more support and more protection from rocks and roots you might come across on a trail. Trail shoes are also stiffer to help you stay vertical and many are water resistant.
U
upper:
The part of the boot that surrounds the foot.
V
Vibram:
Manufacturer of the most common rubber outsoles in hiking boots. Its outsoles give amped up grip and traction.
W
wicking:
A feature of some fabrics that pulls sweat and moisture away from the fabric so breathability is increased.
waterproof:
Can be fully submerged in water. Because they keep water out, they are less breathable.
water-resistant:
Cannot be fully submerged in water without damage. They can handle rain and wet weather because water just beads off them, but wading through water will effectively damage them.
Sources
https://www.merrell.com/US/en-US/Blog/Article.mvc.aspx/e85b5168-05a6-4df9-be1b-bf3af82ba6cb
https://hiking.about.com/od/find-the-right-hiking-boots/a/Hiking-Boot-Features.htm
https://www.landbigfish.com/glossary/hikingterms.cfm
https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/hiking-boots.html
https://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CFPage?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&mode=article&objectID=29620
https://www.saddlebackleather.com/Leather-101
https://gearx.com/blog/knowledge/footwear/how-to-choose-hiking-footwear/
https://site.militarybootsdirect.com/blog/?p=1123
https://www.abc-of-hiking.com/hiking-health/blisters.asp
https://www.abc-of-hiking.com/hiking-apparel/hiking-socks.asp
https://www.dupont.com/products-and-services/fabrics-fibers-nonwovens/fibers/brands/kevlar.html
https://www.abc-of-hiking.com/hiking-boots/hiking-boot-features.asp
https://www.abc-of-hiking.com/hiking-dictionary.asp
https://hiking.about.com/
https://www.cordura.com/en/outdoor/footwear.html
